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Nine Days in Europe—for Less Than $999
By Judith Reitman, September & October 2009
The challenge: to spend roughly $100 a day in London, Milan, and Paris. See how our expat writer pulled it off
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I am sitting in Alla Fontana, a pizzeria in a working-class district of Milan, well off the path of massive churches and chic shops. Between mouthfuls of fish and pasta ($8.50) and sips of cold beer (about $1.50), I watch as locals draw me maps on napkins and argue about navigating this city of piazzas. Their elaborate gesturing keeps me riveted and, best of all, it's free! As I proved on a recent three-city trip, you can still enjoy Europe without an Oprah-like bank account—and as an American who lives in France, I can show you how.
AIRFARES
My goal: three cities, nine days, $999. This doesn't include the flight from the United States, but bargains abound. In mid-June I found roundtrip flights from New York City to London for about $450. (Sign up with sites such as airfarewatchdog.com, which e-mails news about sales.) For my stay—four days in London, two in Milan, three in Paris—I flew with Ryanair and easyJet, Europe-based "secondary" airlines that offer cheap tickets, even with handling and gas-tax charges (learn more at euroflights.info). Ryanair flies mainly to small alternative airports; easyJet tends to go through major ones. I paid $68 to fly Ryanair from London to Bergamo Airport (about 28 miles from Milan); and $69 on easyJet, from Milan to Paris (with fees). It was cheaper than rail: Euro Railways (954-323-8389) can cost $133 from Paris to Milan.
Save money on more than just hotels, meals, and airfare
Say no to taxis. Get a city map that includes bus, subway, and walking routes at a local newsstand, where you can also buy bus or subway passes. And in several countries, once you're 60 you get discounts on everything from transportation to shopping.
Plan ahead for phone calls. You can buy an international calling card; providers include major U.S. carriers. If your cell phone uses the GSM-standard network, consider adding international calling (ask your provider about rates). Or rent or buy an "unlocked" cell phone—one that works with multiple carriers in various countries. Learn more at telestial.com and cellularabroad.com.
Limit currency exchanges. Don't exchange large sums of money. Instead of locking in one (possibly disadvantageous) rate, use your ATM or credit card as you go.
Enjoy free entertainment. Talk to locals to find activities that don't require fees. Options may include street theater or lunchtime concerts.
LONDON
I traveled during high season (late April to August), so bargain hunting was harder. Hotel amenities were a low priority, so I looked for an apartment. Rentals can cost 50 to 80 percent less than hotels: in Paris, studios start at about $62 per night. (Go to ownerdirect.com or homeaway.com for info.) I couldn't find rentals in my budget on short notice, so I went to couchsurfing.org, a database of people offering short-term travelers their couches or guest rooms for free. I couch-surfed a few years ago in Geneva and loved it, thanks to the lovely accommodations and the largely absent but welcoming host. Most hosts I found in London seemed too eager to party, so I chose a bed-and-breakfast. Booking sites such as eurocheapo.com and venere.com described most as "cozy," but tripadvisor.com, a peer-review site, gave the real scoop (similar sites include igougo.com and realtravel.com). The London Visitors Hotel got positive ratings, and at about $54 per night, the clean B&B was a find in posh Kensington. (Reserve directly to avoid booking fees—I paid one when I used a third party.) To save funds, I picnicked in Kew Gardens and Hyde Park and enjoyed a free concert at St Martin-in-the-Fields church, but I also splurged on $12 takeout at inexpensive Indian restaurants. On my last day I stopped at an outdoor market...and missed my airport bus! I paid $178 for a cab, instead of $14.90 for the National Express Coach. Ouch.
B&B: $243
Transportation: $57 (estimated, without cab ride)
Food: $86
TOTAL: $386
MILAN
Hostels are a good budget option: I found the modern Pop House-Milano hostel via a Web search. My room overlooking the courtyard cost $50 per night, including taxes. The Pop House was a rarity, since I paid a single rate for a private room (this costs double at many hostels). Once settled, I toured the city on foot, asking locals where to go. One recommendation: the Chiesa di San Bernardino alle Ossa, a church with fabulous frescoes. When it was time to eat—the city center is languorous with Italian cooking aromas—I bought a hefty $3 panino from a street vendor and lunched beside a spewing fountain. I also ate for a pittance at eateries suggested by locals, with one meal so cheap it still surprises me: for $4—the cost of a white wine at Frida Café—I ate a dinner's worth of free appetizers.
Hostel: $100
Transportation: $91
Food: $25
TOTAL: $216
PARIS
I arrived at my charming hotel—the $79-per-night Hôtel Mistral—and was out the door. Paris is full of free activities, so I strolled along the Seine River and visited the Tuileries and Luxembourg gardens. And I didn't go to pricey restaurants for Parisian food. During my stay I bought fresh goat cheese, chunky apricot jam, smoked salmon, and thick yogurt made in Brittany, for about $22. For laid-back dining, I ordered two gourmet takeout meals for $24—half the dining-in price. But my best meal came (I was chatting with locals again) when I was invited to dinner at a private home. I savored goat cheese salad, sautéed string beans, and a flavorful tarte for dessert. And as a travel experience, it was priceless.
Hotel: $158
Food: $62
Transportation: $141 (with estimated return fare to London)
TOTAL: $361
Judith Reitman, a native New Yorker, lives in Provence and is the author of several nonfiction books. (On this trip the exchange rate for the GBP was 1.49 to U.S.$1.00 and the euro was 1.32 to U.S.$1.00.)
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