November 20, 2008



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Digital Compilation by Isabelle Cardinal

Clothes Encounters of the First Kind

By Sacha Cohen, March & April 2005

Finally, ladies: hot new fashions that aren’t aimed at teens




Too old for hip-huggers but you wouldn't be caught dead in animal-print stretch pants? You're not alone. Style-conscious women 45 and older often have to choose clothes that are either too frumpy or too Britney. But now savvy retailers—including Target and the Gap—are introducing new lines that not only look good but are designed for older-than-35 bodies.

It's a concept that's way overdue. Women 45 to 54 spend about $23.3 billion a year on apparel, according to NPD Group, a market research firm; yet they're largely ignored by youth-obsessed retailers. Now, however, retailers have realized their fashion faux pas: these women, many in their prime earning years, have a greater need for professional and casual clothes.

They're women like Joan Morgan, 51, executive director of a Washington, D.C., foundation. Morgan wants comfort: a forgiving waistline or a flowing jacket—the type of clothes she's found at Chico's, the popular women's clothing chain that has captured about 9 percent of the female baby boomer market. As for stores like the Gap and Banana Republic, many women like Morgan say the clothes are too fitted, too shaped, and too young. "These women may not want extreme fashion, but they still want style, fit, and quality," says Anne Brouwer of the retail consulting firm McMillan/Doolittle.

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Nondowdy fashions are what the Gap plans to offer at its new chain of specialty apparel stores geared to women 35 and older. The company won't reveal the chain's name, but it plans to roll out 10 stores in 2005. They'll include several categories of clothes, from weekend wear to office outfits. "I think they plan to use the hipness of the Gap brand, which appeals very well across generations, while still focusing on clothing more appropriate for boomers," explains James Chung, president of Reach Advisors, a Boston-based market strategy and research firm.

Other retailers are following the Gap's example. In late 2004, kids' clothier Gymboree launched Janeville, aimed at women 35 and older who "value modern styling, comfort, and individuality." More than 14 stores had already opened by the end of 2004. Target's new Linden Hill line is for sophisticated 40-to-60-year-old women who want a chic, casual look. "It's body-forgiving and body-enhancing," promises Target. For men the chain offers its casual Breakwater line, inspired by upscale brands like Perry Ellis and Tommy Bahama. Both brands are priced at $10 to $30 per item, significantly less than the lines they're based on.