May 17, 2008



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Illustration by Francisco Caceres

Happy Trails

By Kathy Baruffi and Monica Hesse, September & October 2004

Flat paths for people who love biking but hate hills




The C & O Canal

This 185-mile trail—a former mule path—runs through the lush Potomac River valley from tony Georgetown in Washington, D.C., to the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains.

  • How Flat: The path rises 605 feet from the nation's capital to Maryland—but it's so gradual you won't notice.
  • Diversions: On weekends, you can take a guided tour of a quaint canal lock house near mile 23. Even better: you can snarf down freshly churned butter on crackers.

The Delaware and Raritan Canal

This 70-mile Jersey towpath winds from Trenton to New Brunswick past 19th-century homes. Take your eyes off the road and you may see some bald eagles.

  • How Flat: Vicky Chirco, the canal's historian, swears there are "no hills whatsoever."
  • Diversions: Stop at the cozy Franklin Inn Used Bookstore, built in 1752, near Route 514. It has more than 20,000 used and rare books.

The John Wayne Pioneer Trail

A converted railway bed, this 113-mile trail runs from Puget Sound, Washington, to the foothills of the Cascade Mountains. If you like riding in total darkness, zip through the 2.3-mile Snoqualmie Tunnel.

  • How Flat: The overall grade is 1.75 percent, which geologically speaking means it's as flat as your tuchis after you've ridden all 113 miles.
  • Diversions: Stop at Dick and Jane's Spot in Ellensburg. It features an odd array of artwork made from objects such as bottles, reflectors, and yes, bike wheels.

Old Plank Road Trail

A one-time American Indian trading route, this leisurely 20-mile trail rolls through the unspoiled greenery of northeastern Illinois.

  • How Flat: There's a reason this trail has been used for centuries. It's easy on the thighs.
  • Diversions: Replenish those burned calories at the Creamery in Frankfort. The specialty: an ice cream cone with a shot of flavored syrup around the rim.

The Hudson River Greenway

This yin and yang of bike trails runs 11 miles from 181st Street to Battery Park in New York City, with the bulging skyline on one side and the tranquil Hudson River on the other.

  • How Flat: It's flat, but full—the country's most-used trail. Weekdays, especially midday, are best.
  • Diversions: The lighthouse underneath the George Washington Bridge was memorialized in the kiddie book The Little Red Lighthouse and the Great Gray Bridge—and you can't see it from the freeway.