Photo by Stephanie Rausser
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Looking Great
Acne and Wrinkles
By Leslie Baumann, M.D., May & June 2008
Try this three-step plan to ease wrinkles and, yes, adult acne
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Practically every week a patient comes to me with two problems common in the over-50 population: adult acne and wrinkles. She has been treating the acne with products containing benzoyl peroxide, and she’s also spending a fortune on pricey antiaging creams. But her acne and her wrinkles seem to be getting worse. The reason is counterintuitive but simple. As skin ages, it becomes drier and thinner (even acne-prone skin can be dry on the surface). So the benzoyl peroxide has been stripping her skin of moisture. And the heavy ingredients in her antiaging products have clogged her pores, making her acne worse. The trick, then, is to nourish her delicate skin while unclogging her pores and minimizing the appearance of wrinkles. See steps below.
In the News
The Titan laser, approved by the FDA for heat therapy, has become the go-to treatment for noninvasive skin tightening. The Titan uses infrared light to stimulate the dermis to produce new collagen, while protecting the top skin with its cool tip. Three to five treatments (about $750 each) are optimal.
Moisturize
Studies show that moisturizing dry skin actually improves acne. Choose hydrating cleansers such as CeraVe or Cetaphil, and moisturizers with glycerin and ceramides.
Treat Acne
Look for acne products with salicylic acid or glycolic acid, rather than benzoyl peroxide. I like Philosophy’s On a Clear Day serum and MD Skincare’s Alpha Beta Daily Face Peel.
Beat Wrinkles
Retinol and prescription-strength retinoids are the only ingredients proven to minimize wrinkles. Try Ziana (by prescription only) or Neutrogena’s Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream.
Leslie Baumann, M.D., is a dermatologist in Miami Beach, Florida, and the author of The Skin Type Solution (Bantam, 2006). Visit her blog at www.skinguru.com or www.skintypesolutions.com.
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