Courtesy of José Andrés
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Web Exclusive…
Small Plates for Your Table
By Monica Bhide, May 2006
José Andrés discusses the history and allure of Spanish tapas,
and divulges some of his favorite recipes
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José Andrés, one of America's most successful and noted
chefs, owes his fame to something small—small plates, that is, also known
as tapas. He co-owns and operates seven restaurants in the
Washington, D.C., area, where he serves his innovative and creative Spanish
tapas. AARP caught up with Andrés, who was shooting his wildly popular
food program in Spain, to talk about tapas and what makes them so special.
Chef Andrés, who was voted Bon Appétit's Chef of the Year
in 2004, recently released a book full of tapas recipes—Tapas: A Taste of
Spain in America (Clarkson Potter, 2005).
Q: What exactly are tapas? Are they unique to Spain? How did you decide to
focus on them?
A: Tapas are the traditional small dishes of Spain, the small plates of this
and that served at bars and cafés across the country. We know that the
tradition of the tapas probably began in southern Spain, in Andalusia,
but beyond that its origins begin to get a little murky. The word tapa
translates to lid in English. And there is an often-told story that tapas
originated in the taverns, where people would go to enjoy a glass of wine or
sherry. To keep pesky flies from landing in a customer's drink, the tavern
keepers began to place a slice of bread—sometimes it is also said to have been
a plate—on top of the glass. Eventually, the tavern keepers began to top the
customer's drink with a treat, things like a few almonds or olives, slices
of chorizo, maybe a chunk of tortilla, or perhaps a wedge of cheese.
Maybe the story is true, maybe not, no one knows. It could be nonsense but
it's a nice story. What is clear is that the Andalusian custom of
eating tapas, and the custom of the tapéo, moving from bar to bar,
allowing the diner to sample the specialty of the house at each, has spread to
all of Spain. And now Americans have adopted it.
The story of how I found myself cooking tapas in America is funny. I was
cooking at fine dining restaurants. I had worked at very high-end restaurants,
at Michelin-starred restaurants, when Rob Wilder and Roberto Alvarez, my
partners, approached me about moving to Washington to help them open a tapas
bar. I love tapas but honestly, I thought they were crazy. A tapas bar in
Washington? I thought, "what?" To me, tapas were something very
casual, a cheap way of eating; you stood at the bar and for a small amount of
money you ate well. But to build a restaurant in Washington around the idea of
tapas? I admit I was a nonbeliever. Thank goodness [for my partners].
Q: What are some fun combinations—ingredients that work well—for
tapas? And some typical ones?
A: I love the combination of watermelon and tomato. It is unusual but it
works so well. The crisp, refreshing sweetness of the watermelon paired with
ripe and acid tomato. A little olive oil and salt, and it is perfect. Also,
soft-shell crab is not something we cook with in Spain. However, a good
soft-shell fried the Spanish way in an excellent olive oil and served with some
allioli makes an unbeatable tapa. A super traditional choice would be a classic
tortilla de patatas, potato omelette.
Q: What do you serve to drink with tapas? Are there traditional drinks?
A: Sangria, wines, beer, hard cider, and of course, sherry are all very
traditional. It is hard to say. So much depends on the ingredients in the tapa.
There is no one-size-fits-all solution. And no real rules! I make specific
recommendations for each recipe in my book.
Q: Any other advice for readers who want to prepare tapas at
home—serving suggestions, how to estimate how much will be needed, et
cetera?
A: Think about balance when planning. Serve something hot, something cold,
something acid, something crisp, something meaty, something featuring seafood,
some cheese, some sausages, some olives, good bread to sop up the sauces. The
joy of tapas is to be able to try a little bit of everything, so give your
guests some variety!
In the restaurant, people typically order two to three tapas per person for
a meal, more if you are very hungry.
Q: Can you share three recipes from your book for AARP readers? The recipes
have to be easy to prepare, healthy, and have a simple ingredient list.
A: Tapas can be a very healthy way to eat! The portions are small. Because
there is no conventional structure to the meal, there is no heavy
entrée.
From the book, I would recommend tapas that are lighter, like espinacas a la
Catalana, spinach with raisins and pine nuts; pinchitos de tomate con sandia,
skewers of tomato and watermelon; and of course, gazpacho.
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