Photo: Foodpix/Jupiter Images
|
Ripe Every Time
By Russ Parsons, July & August 2007
Choosing summer produce doesn’t have to be a mystery. Here’s how to select and store melons, squash and more
|
The world of agriculture is defined both practically and aesthetically by two extremes: those farmers whose aim is to grow the greatest possible amount of food at the lowest possible price, and those whose goal is to grow the greatest quality of food no matter what it costs. Both are necessary. It would be a poor state of affairs indeed if our grocery stores were filled with nothing but six-dollar-a-pound peaches, no matter how exquisite they might be. And, of course, the opposite is equally true: what good are all the peaches you can eat if none of them tastes good.
A Summery Fruit Recipe
Honeydew Ice Parfait with Berries and Port
Fortunately if you know how to choose fresh produce, you can get the best of both worlds: good-quality fruits and vegetables that don’t eat up your whole food budget. Simply knowing the dos and don’ts of selection, storage, and preparation (see below) can go a long way toward ensuring your summer meals feature only the tastiest corn, melons, tomatoes, and peaches.
How to Pick Produce
Think you know everything there is to know about fresh fruits and vegetables? Have you ever put a tomato in the fridge? We rest our case. Now, study up!
| Produce | You Might Not Know | How to Choose | How to Store |
Melons
 | The best indicator of quality is "sugar spots"—brown flecks on the skin—though you'll find them only at farmers' markets (grocers wash them off). | Good cantaloupes have a deep floral fragrance at the stem end. Good
honeydews have a creamy color and waxy texture. Good watermelons will sound hollow when thumped lightly. | All melons should be stored at room temperature. If you prefer your melons chilled, put them in the refrigerator overnight; any longer than that, the rinds will begin to pit and decay. |
Eggplants
 | Most eggplants are not bitter. At least they are no more bitter than a green bell pepper or a green apple or the tannic skin of a fresh walnut. | Eggplant is surprisingly fragile; it bruises easily, which can quickly turn it bad. When choosing, pick the ones that are heaviest for their size. Also feel the skin: it should be taut. | If you won't be using them right away, store eggplants in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator in a plastic bag with a crumpled-up paper towel, which will help to absorb excess moisture. |
Corn
 | One color of corn is not necessarily sweeter or "cornier" than the other. It's all just packaging and your personal preference. | The husks should be fresh and green with no drying. The floss should be golden and fresh looking. The kernels should be well filled out (but not overlarge) and evenly spaced. | Refrigerate corn away from strong-flavored foods; corn absorbs odors. Keep it in its husk until you're ready to cook it, to help preserve the moisture in the kernels. |
Peach
 | Nectarines have a slightly acidic character with an almost lemony top note, while peaches tend to be muskier and richer in flavor. | Ripe fruit will be golden, not green. Mature fruit that hung on the tree long enough will have a distinctive orangy cast. With peaches and nectarines always trust your nose. | If you buy peaches or nectarines that are too firm, leave them at room temperature. Only when they begin to ripen should you move them to the refrigerator. |
Tomatoes
 | Temperatures below 60 degrees reduce the aroma-creating substances in the fruit. This happens quickly and is irreversible. | Avoid any tomatoes with dents, nicks, cuts, or bruises. Also, you want tomatoes that are heavy for their size. In the end, trust your nose. Aroma is the best indicator of quality. | Do not, ever, put a tomato in the refrigerator. Instead, store tomatoes in a cool, dry place away from direct light. |
Squash
 | There are more than 100 varieties of squash, and many of them are crosses between zucchini and varieties known as marrows and cocozelles. | Summer squash should be firm, and free of wrinkles and nicks. Really fresh squash bristles with tiny hairs. | Summer squash are fairly perishable and should be cooked within a week of harvest. Refrigerate them until they're ready to use, and seal them in plastic bags to slow respiration. |
When It's Okay to Buy Unripe Fruit
Some fruits benefit from a day on the counter. Others don't.
One of the biggest mistakes people make when they’re shopping for fruit is assuming that what they see is the best they’re going to get. But many fruits will actually improve if you can just leave them alone for a day or two.
Generally these are known as climacteric fruits, and they include apples, apricots, avocados, bananas, cantaloupes (but not honeydews or watermelons), figs, guavas, mangoes, nectarines, peaches, pears, persimmons, plums, and tomatoes.
You can buy all sorts of gadgets to help you ripen climacteric fruits, but all you really need is a paper bag and a spot on your counter. Place the fruit in the bag and wait a day or two. For nonclimacteric fruits, buy the ripest ones you can find.
From How to Pick a Peach: The Search for Flavor From Farm to Table by Russ Parsons. Copyright © 2007 by Russ Parsons. Reprinted with permission
|
