January 7, 2009



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Photo by Christopher Hirsheimer

Cooking With Small Fry

By Lidia Matticchio Bastianich, May & June 2005




I am fortunate indeed that cooking—something I've loved ever since I was a small child—has become my life's work. My days are filled with the challenges and delights of making wonderful food, whether I'm teaching young chefs at my restaurants, writing recipes for my cookbooks, or getting dishes to come out just right on camera for my public television shows.

Yet I count it an even greater blessing when I can go home at the end of the day and share a meal with those I love: my mother, my two children, and my five grandchildren, all of whom live close enough that there's never a reason to miss Sunday dinner. For hours on end, four generations gather in the kitchen—cooking, eating, cleaning up, and always talking—while the kids run laughing (and sometimes crying) through the house. These are the most precious moments of my life.

As a grandmother, I have also used these special times when we cook together to communicate important lessons to my grandchildren—about love, patience, and understanding, but also about geography, the seasons, and mathematics. When I let them play with the measuring cups and water in the sink, they learn that you need four one-quarter cups to fill the one cup. For the younger ones, there are the tactile sensations of kneading dough and the aromas of basil, mint, and sage as I crack the fresh leaves under their noses. The older ones grate cheese, squeeze lemons, and bread the cutlets.

One of my grandchildren's favorite dishes to make and eat is gnocchi—potato dumplings made from cooked potatoes, flour, and eggs. The children peel the potatoes, then crack the eggs and add the flour as I knead the dough. The fun really begins, though, when I give each one their own piece of dough and let them shape it into little gnocchi. Each child creates their own distinctive shapes, which they recognize even after the dumplings are cooked. When the meal is presented at the table, the children are so proud that they helped Noni prepare it.

I find that the children love to be involved in other ways too. While the meal is cooking, we set the table. Then we make centerpieces—usually from vegetables, fresh herbs, and flowers—giving the kids an opportunity to learn about colors and textures. When the meal is over, they help with the cleanup, so they learn responsibility and coordination. Even after they've forgotten what we ate together, they will remember the love, the security, and the sense of belonging that comes from cooking with the whole family.

Sometimes grandchildren do not live close enough that you can cook with them on a regular basis, but that's no reason not to share kitchen projects and recipes by phone or e-mail. Ship them some samples with the recipes, with pictures and little stories. Ask them to do the same and send you back photographs of the results. It's like sharing a little of Grandma's love and wisdom long-distance.

Age brings maturity, serenity, understanding, and the capacity to give much love. I have learned that cooking with my grandchildren allows me to express that love in a unique and nurturing way. Buon appetito and tutti a tavola a mangiare ("all to the table to eat").

Lidia Bastianich hosts two cooking shows on public television and has written four Italian cookbooks, the most recent of which is Lidia's Family Table (Alfred A. Knopf, 2004).

For more great recipes and cooking demonstrations, go to www.lidiasitaly.com.