Photo by William Meppem

New Classic Pompano in Packages By Arthur Boehm

adapted from The Modern Seafood Cook

(Serves 4)

The French call it cooking en papillote—which means steaming fish fillets or other delicate food in sealed, moisture-protecting paper (such as parchment) or foil packages for delicious, low-fat eating. Seasonings and vegetables go right into the package with the protein, and all emerge beautifully flavored. This all-in-one method makes life easy on the cook, and, because little fat is required, it's especially good for those watching calories and cholesterol.

The following is a basic recipe for cooking en papillote; feel free to alter the accompaniments (see variations below, or improvise on your own).

Pompano is a sweet-fleshed fish that takes well to package-cooking, although you can substitute virtually any other fish. If you use the optional butter, you'll end up with a lovely light sauce; olive oil won't emulsify (blend with the other liquids to produce a sauce) as the butter does, but works as a tasty seasoning.

• 4 pompano or other fish fillets, about 6 ounces each
• 2 cups, bite-size broccoli florets
• 8 fresh thyme sprigs or 1/2 teaspoon dried (or 4 teaspoons chopped chives)
• 24 button mushrooms (or 3 cups mushrooms sliced 1/4-inch thick)
• 2 tablespoons, melted butter or olive oil (optional)
• Juice from 1 lemon
• 2/3 to 1 cup, dry white wine, fish stock, or water
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Cut 4 pieces of foil 2 inches longer than the fillets and several times as wide. Fold it in half, open, and place on a work surface.

Place one fillet on the bottom half of each foil sheet. Dividing equally among the fish, place the broccoli, thyme, mushrooms, and butter or oil, if using, over the fillets. Dribble the lemon juice on top, and season with the salt and pepper to taste. Close all but one short side of the packages by crimping the edges well. Into the open sides pour 2/3 cup of the wine, stock, or water, equally divided among the packages. (Increase to 1 cup, if using sliced mushrooms.) Seal the remaining sides tightly.

Place the pouches on a baking sheet. Put the baking sheet on top of the stove, and heat over medium-high heat to start cooking, about 2 minutes. Transfer to the oven, and bake until the pouches have puffed, 10 to 15 minutes.

Remove the packages from the oven. Put them on serving plates, and, with a small sharp knife, make slits. Guests can open and eat directly from the packages.

Variations

Halve 2 bay leaves, and add 1/2 leaf to each package with 2 Niçoise or Calamata olives. (Or use the olives alone.) Or add lemon or lime slices. Any herbs—try sage, marjoram, or dill—can replace the thyme. For heat, add 1 jalapeño, seeded and minced.